🎣 Fishing Spot: Hoh River, Olympic Peninsula

🏞️ General Details About the Hoh River

The Hoh River is one of the Pacific Northwest's most iconic and pristine wild steelhead and salmon rivers, flowing 56 miles from the glaciers of Mount Olympus through the ancient temperate rainforest of Olympic National Park to the Pacific Ocean. Located on Washington's Olympic Peninsula, the Hoh is renowned for producing some of the largest winter steelhead in North America, with fish regularly exceeding 15 pounds and trophy specimens pushing 20+ pounds.

What sets the Hoh apart is its wild fish heritage—this is a native steelhead river with strong runs of naturally reproducing fish. The river drains the wettest region in the contiguous United States, receiving over 140 inches of annual rainfall, which creates the emerald green old-growth rainforest and maintains year-round flows that support multiple salmon and steelhead runs.

The Hoh offers over 20 miles of accessible fishing water from the confluence with the Sol Duc River (forming the Quillayute) downstream to the upper reaches near the park boundary. The river features classic Pacific Northwest characteristics: deep pools, tailouts, boulder-strewn runs, gravel bars, and logjam structure. Unlike heavily developed rivers, much of the Hoh retains its wilderness character, with Roosevelt elk, black bears, and bald eagles frequently observed along its banks.

The river is open for fishing year-round, though regulations vary by season and target species. Peak fishing occurs during winter steelhead season (December through April) when the legendary Hoh winter-run fish enter the system.

🌟 Why the Hoh River Is Special

• Trophy Wild Steelhead
  The Hoh is legendary for producing massive native winter steelhead. These aren't hatchery fish—they're wild, ocean-bright chrome bullets that average 8-12 pounds, with double-digit fish common and 20-pounders caught every season. The genetic strain of Hoh steelhead is considered among the finest in the world.

• Pristine Wilderness Setting
  Much of the river flows through Olympic National Park and Olympic National Forest, ensuring protection from development. You'll fish surrounded by 300-foot Sitka spruce and western hemlock trees, some over 500 years old. The experience is as much about the cathedral-like rainforest as the fishing itself.

• Multiple Species Opportunities
  Beyond steelhead, the Hoh hosts runs of Chinook (king) salmon, coho (silver) salmon, chum (dog) salmon, and seasonal cutthroat trout and Dolly Varden. This diversity means productive fishing nearly year-round with different species available in different seasons.

• Accessible Yet Challenging
  Highway 101 parallels the lower river, providing easy access to numerous drift boat launches and bank fishing spots. Yet the river's size, power, and complex structure create technical fishing challenges that reward skill and persistence. This isn't a "fish in a barrel" experience—you earn every hookup.

• Rich Fishing Heritage
  The Hoh has been a destination for serious steelheaders since the mid-20th century. Legendary anglers like Trey Combs, Bob York, and countless others have refined techniques here. The river has influenced steelhead fly fishing, drift fishing, and float fishing methods used throughout the Pacific Northwest.

• Year-Round Fishing
  While winter steelhead season (December-April) draws the most attention, the Hoh offers fishing opportunities in every season: summer steelhead (July-September), fall Chinook (September-November), coho (October-December), and summer cutthroat trout. Something is always available.

💵 Cost and Access (2025)

The Hoh River is primarily managed by the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife (WDFW), with the upper river flowing through Olympic National Park. Access is relatively inexpensive compared to many destination fisheries.

🎫 2025 Licensing and Access Fees

Important Regulations:

• Wild Steelhead: Catch-and-release ONLY (no retention of wild steelhead on the Hoh)
• Hatchery Steelhead: Check current regulations—retention rules change seasonally
• Salmon Seasons: Vary by species; check WDFW regulations before fishing
• Barbless Hooks: Required year-round for all salmon and steelhead fishing
• Gear Restrictions: Varies by season—check current regs for bait/lure restrictions

Where to Buy Licenses: Available online at https://fishhunt.dfw.wa.gov or at local sporting goods stores (Olympic Sporting Goods in Forks, WA is a great resource).

Critical: Always check current WDFW regulations before fishing. Salmon and steelhead rules change frequently, and violations carry steep fines.

🐟 Species and Seasonal Timing

The Hoh River system supports multiple anadromous fish runs throughout the year, each with distinct characteristics, behaviors, and fishing strategies.

Flow Considerations:
The Hoh is a high-gradient, rain-fed river. Winter flows can range from 1,500 cfs (fishable) to 15,000+ cfs (blown out). Ideal winter steelhead flows: 2,000-4,500 cfs. Check USGS gauge #12041200 before trips. River can rise dramatically in hours during rain events.

🎯 Mastering the Hoh: Advanced Techniques

Success on the Hoh River requires understanding Pacific Northwest steelhead and salmon behavior, river hydraulics, and specialized presentation techniques. Below are three essential methods that consistently produce fish on this legendary river.

🎣 Technique #1: Drift Fishing with Bait and Jigs

Overview
Drift fishing (also called "bottom bouncing") is the most productive and widely used technique for winter steelhead on the Hoh River. This method involves drifting natural baits or jigs along the river bottom through steelhead holding lies, maintaining constant contact with the substrate while presenting offerings at the fish's eye level. When executed properly, drift fishing accounts for the vast majority of hooked steelhead during prime winter conditions. The technique requires specialized gear, proper weight adjustment, and understanding of river structure and steelhead behavior.

When to Deploy This Technique

• Prime Season: December through April for winter steelhead; September-November for salmon
• Ideal Flows: 2,000-4,500 cfs for steelhead (lower flows for summer-run fish)
• Water Clarity: 18 inches to 4 feet visibility is optimal (steelhead rely on scent and vibration, not just sight)
• Best Locations: Tailouts, deep slots, seams between fast and slow current, bucket holes, inside bends
• Weather Conditions: Overcast or light rain is ideal; avoid fishing during rapid flow increases

Tackle Setup

• Rod: 9-10.5 foot medium-heavy spinning or conventional rod rated for 10-20 lb line (longer rods provide better line control and drift management)
• Reel: Baitcasting reel with clicker or spinning reel (4000-5000 size) with smooth, reliable drag
• Main Line: 12-20 lb monofilament (mono has stretch that cushions headshakes) OR 30-40 lb braided line to 8-12 lb mono leader
• Leader: 24-36 inches of 8-12 lb fluorocarbon or monofilament (lighter in clear water)
• Weight System: Slinky weights (3-6 feet of paracord filled with lead shot) OR pencil lead (1/4-1 oz sections)
• Hooks: Size 2-2/0 octopus or mosquito hooks for bait; jig hooks for soft plastics

Why Slinky Weights?
Slinkies are the Pacific Northwest secret weapon. Unlike egg sinkers, slinkies slide over rocks rather than wedging between them, resulting in fewer snags and more natural drift. They're reusable and adjustable—add or remove shot as conditions change.

Best Baits and Lures (In Order of Effectiveness)

Natural Baits:

1. Cured Salmon Eggs (Skein): The #1 winter steelhead bait. Use 1-inch cubes of bright orange or pink cured skein. Fresh is best—cure your own or buy quality pre-cured.
2. Cured Single Eggs: Individual salmon eggs tied in mesh spawn sacks (size of dime to quarter). Pink, orange, and natural colors all work.
3. Sand Shrimp (Ghost Shrimp): Deadly when available. Thread 2-3 shrimp on a hook. Peeled shrimp often outperform whole.
4. Prawns: Whole prawns or prawn tails. Effective for steelhead and especially good for Chinook salmon.
5. Nightcrawlers: Underrated. Use 1-2 whole crawlers threaded on hook or half-crawler fished on lighter leader.

Artificial Offerings:

1. Jigs: 1/8-3/8 oz marabou jigs in pink, purple, black, white, and orange. Tip with gulp maggots, prawns, or soft plastics.
2. Soft Plastic Worms: 3-4 inch worms in pink, purple, orange, and chartreuse on jig heads.
3. Beads: 8-12mm beads (pink, orange, flame, blood red) pegged 1-2 inches above bare hook—imitates drifting salmon eggs.
4. Spin-N-Glos: Corky-style floats in pink, orange, and chartreuse drift fished with scent or bait.

The Technique: Step-by-Step

1. Reading the Water: Finding Steelhead Lies
Steelhead hold in predictable locations based on current speed, depth, and cover:

• Tailouts: Where pools transition to riffles; fish rest here before moving upstream
• Bucket Holes: Deep depressions behind large boulders or logjams where current slows
• Seams: Transition zones between fast and slow current—steelhead hold on the slow side
• Inside Bends: Deeper water on river bends; fish rest in the slack water
• Behind Obstructions: Logs, boulders, and bedrock shelves create relief from current
• Depth Sweet Spot: Winter steelhead prefer 3-8 feet of water with moderate current

Avoid: Shallow riffles, extremely fast water, and dead slack pools. Steelhead want enough current to provide oxygen but not so much they exhaust themselves.

2. Rigging Your Drift Setup

Standard Bait Setup:

• Tie a barrel swivel to your main line
• Attach 24-36 inch leader (8-12 lb fluorocarbon) to swivel
• Thread slinky weight onto leader above hook OR attach pencil lead with pinch-on weight holder
• Tie size 2-1/0 octopus hook to leader end
• Bait with cured eggs, shrimp, or prawns

Jig Setup:

• Attach jig directly to main line OR use 12-24 inch fluorocarbon leader
• Add small slinky or pencil lead 18 inches above jig in heavier current
• Tip jig with gulp maggot, piece of prawn, or soft plastic

Weight Adjustment (Critical):
Your weight should tick-tick-tick along the bottom as it drifts—constant light contact without hanging up excessively. Too heavy = constant snags. Too light = drifting above fish. Adjust slinky/pencil lead every run based on current speed.

3. The Cast and Mend

• Quartering Upstream Cast: Cast 30-45 degrees upstream from your position, placing bait upstream of the target lie
• Immediate Mend: As soon as bait hits water, mend (flip) line upstream. This prevents belly in the line and ensures bait drifts naturally
• High Rod Position: Keep rod tip at 10-11 o'clock position throughout drift, maintaining light tension

4. The Drift: Feel Everything

This is where the art of drift fishing happens:

• Active Line Management: Follow the drift with your rod tip, keeping minimal slack while feeling every tick of weight on bottom
• Constant Bottom Contact: You should feel steady tick-tick-tick as weight bounces over rocks. If ticking stops, you're either off bottom (reel up) or snagged (apply pressure to free or break off)
• Watch Your Line: Line should drift at the same speed as surface current. If line races ahead or lags behind, your presentation is unnatural—adjust mends
• Complete the Drift: Fish through the entire tailout or run. Don't pick up early—strikes often occur at the end of drifts
• Step and Repeat: After each drift, take 2-3 steps downstream and repeat. Cover all water systematically

5. Strike Detection and Hookset

Steelhead takes vary from aggressive thumps to subtle weight:

• The Classic "Steelhead Bump": Feels like tapping or a slight pull—different from bottom ticking. Set immediately.
• Dead Weight: Suddenly feels like you snagged—but it moves. Set the hook hard.
• Rod Tip Pull: Tip pulls down aggressively. Set immediately.
• Line Movement: Watch where line enters water—if it stops, twitches, or moves unnaturally, SET THE HOOK.

The Hookset:
Sharp, powerful upward sweep with the rod. Don't trout set (light lift)—steelhead have bony mouths. Set hard, set twice. Many steelhead are lost at hookset due to timid setting.

6. The Fight and Landing

Winter steelhead are powerful, acrobatic, and often fight near hazards:

• First Run: Expect explosive initial run—let them go, trust your drag
• Keep Them Downstream: Apply side pressure to keep fish below you (fighting upstream exhausts them)
• Jump Management: Lower rod tip when fish jumps to create slack—prevents thrown hooks
• Stay Mobile: Follow aggressive fish downstream rather than horsing them
• Net or Beach: Land fish in slower water. Use large rubber net OR beach fish gently on gravel bar
• Quick Release: Minimize handling. Keep wild fish in water, remove hook quickly, support until they swim away strongly

Pro Tips from Hoh River Guides

Bait Curing Secrets:

• Fresh eggs cure better than frozen. Get eggs directly from salmon during spawn or from local tackle shops.
• Cure with Borax, sugar, or proprietary cures (Fire Cure, Pautzke Nectar). Bright colors (pink, orange) outperform natural in stained water.
• Store in glass jars in refrigerator. Properly cured eggs last months.

Weight Management:

• Carry multiple slinkies: 1 oz, 2 oz, 3 oz, and 4 oz. Change as conditions dictate.
• When in doubt, start heavier than you think—better to snag bottom than drift above fish.
• In very heavy current, switch to pencil lead (more compact, better bottom contact).

Water Temperature Matters:

• Steelhead are most active in 38-48°F water. Below 36°F, they're lethargic. Above 50°F, they're moving fast.
• Cold morning water (36-40°F): Fish slower, longer drifts. Afternoon warming (42-48°F): More aggressive strikes.

Color Selection:

• Stained Water (1-2 feet visibility): Bright pink, orange, chartreuse
• Clear Water (3+ feet): Natural colors, light pink, peach
• Overcast Days: Brighter colors
• Sunny Days: More subdued, natural tones

Multiple Presentations:

• If bait isn't producing, switch to jigs. If jigs fail, try beads. Steelhead moods change—adapt.
• Running two rods (if you have two-pole endorsement) with different baits accelerates learning.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Drifting too fast (not enough weight)—bait racing over steelhead heads
• Fishing same run repeatedly without moving—cover water systematically
• Poor hooksets—SET HARD, set multiple times
• Using dull hooks—sharpen after every few snags
• Keeping rod tip too low—can't feel strikes or set effectively
• Fishing only "obvious" holes—steelhead use marginal water too
• Giving up too early—winter steelhead fishing requires persistence

🎣 Technique #2: Float Fishing (Centerpin or Spinning)

Overview
Float fishing (bobber fishing) is an elegant, highly effective technique for presenting baits and lures at precise depths through steelhead holding water. By suspending offerings under a buoyant float (bobber), anglers can drift baits naturally through runs, pockets, and seams while maintaining complete depth control. Float fishing excels in water too fast for standard drift fishing and allows covering extensive runs with perfect presentations. In skilled hands, centerpin reels (free-spooling reels designed for float fishing) provide unmatched drift quality, but spinning gear works excellently for beginners.

When to Deploy This Technique

• Best For: Winter and summer steelhead, coho salmon, chum salmon
• Ideal Water: Medium to fast runs, pocket water, long glides, tailouts with choppy surface
• Water Depth: 3-8 feet ideal (float fishing shallow or very deep water is challenging)
• Conditions: Effective in all water clarities; especially deadly in 2-4 feet visibility
• Weather: Excels during stable flows; less effective during rapid rises

Tackle Setup

Centerpin Setup (Traditional):

• Rod: 11-14 foot centerpin rod (longer rods control drift better)
• Reel: Centerpin reel (Kingpin, Raven, Steez CV-Z, or budget-friendly Okuma Aventa)
• Main Line: 12-15 lb monofilament (buoyant mono floats better than braid)
• Leader: 24-36 inches of 8-12 lb fluorocarbon
• Float: Drennan, Raven, or Blackbird floats (3-6 grams depending on current)
• Shot Pattern: Split shot added above leader to balance float (should stand vertical with just tip showing)
• Hooks: Size 2-1/0 octopus or mosquito hooks

Spinning Setup (More Accessible):

• Rod: 9-11 foot medium-light spinning rod
• Reel: 3000-4000 spinning reel with smooth drag
• Main Line: 10-12 lb monofilament
• Same leader, float, shot, and hook setup as centerpin

Float Selection and Balancing:
Float must be weighted (balanced) so only 1/4 to 1/2 inch of tip shows above water. Add split shot incrementally until balanced. Unbalanced floats telegraph strikes poorly and don't drift naturally.

Best Baits for Float Fishing:

1. Jigs: 1/16-1/4 oz jigs in pink, purple, cerise, and orange, tipped with prawns or maggots
2. Roe Bags: Single eggs or small clusters in mesh (pea-size to dime-size)
3. Beads: 10-14mm beads pegged 1-2 inches above hook (deadly for coho and chum)
4. Sand Shrimp: 1-2 shrimp threaded on hook
5. Spin-N-Glos or Corkies: Size 10-14 in pink, orange, or chartreuse, tipped with scent
6. Flies: Egg patterns, buggers, or stonefly nymphs under float

The Technique: Step-by-Step

1. Setting Your Depth

Float depth is critical—your bait should drift 6-12 inches off bottom:

• Start with float set at approximately 1.5x the water depth (in 4 feet of water, set float at 6 feet from hook)
• Make test drift: if float never hesitates or dips, you're too shallow—lengthen leader
• If float drags or constantly dips, you're too deep—shorten leader
• Adjust until you get occasional light taps on bottom but mostly clean drift

2. Reading Water and Positioning

Float fishing covers water other techniques can't:

• Long Runs: 50-100 foot glides with consistent depth—perfect for float fishing
• Fast Pocket Water: Boulders and structure creating pockets and seams
• Tailouts: The transition zone at pool ends
• Bank Lines: Current along undercut banks and logjams

Position yourself upstream of target water. You'll cast downstream and drift bait below you.

3. The Cast and Drift Setup

Downstream Casting:

• Cast at 45-degree angle downstream and slightly across current
• As float lands, immediately open bail (spinning) or palm reel (centerpin) to let line freely flow
• Hold rod high (10 o'clock) to keep line off water except for the section between rod tip and float

4. Managing the Drift (The Art of Float Fishing)

This is where centerpin reels excel but spinning can work:

• Free-Spooling Drift: Let float drift naturally downstream at current speed. Don't reel—let line pull from reel freely
• Mending: If current pulls a belly in the line (causing float to drag unnaturally), flip line upstream with rod tip
• Follow the Float: Walk downstream with the float, maintaining rod position and minimal line on water
• Extend Drifts: A good float drift can cover 50-100 feet of water before recasting
• Slow the Drift: Occasionally "check" the float (stop line flow momentarily)—this lifts bait slightly and often triggers strikes

With Centerpin: The reel free-spools perfectly. Light palm pressure controls speed.
With Spinning: Flip bail open, use index finger against spool to control line release (takes practice).

5. Strike Detection and Hookset

Float fishing provides visual strike detection:

• Float Dips or Submerges: Immediate hookset required
• Float Hesitates or Stops: Something grabbed it—SET THE HOOK
• Float Moves Sideways: Fish took bait and moved—SET NOW
• Float Accelerates: Fish grabbed and is moving downstream—SET

The Hookset:
Firm downstream sweep. Since you're drifting downstream, hookset direction is downstream and to the side. Don't sweep upstream—you'll pull hook away from fish.

6. Fighting Fish on Float Tackle

Float rods are long and flexible:

• Use Rod Length: The long rod absorbs runs and headshakes beautifully
• Stay Mobile: Follow fish downstream; don't fight from fixed position
• High Rod: Keep rod high to protect light leaders
• Net Quickly: Get fish to net efficiently to ensure healthy release

Pro Tips for Float Fishing Success

Centerpin vs Spinning:

• Centerpin provides superior drift quality and is worth learning if you're serious about float fishing
• Spinning works perfectly well—don't think you "need" a centerpin to succeed
• Budget-friendly centerpins ($150-250 range) perform 80% as well as high-end models

Shot Placement:

• Split shot should be concentrated near the hook (8-12 inches above) for better depth control
• Avoid spreading shot up the leader—concentrate weight low

Drift Management:

• Your first drift through a run is often the most productive—make it count
• Cover water systematically: start at run's head, work downstream in 5-foot increments
• Make multiple drifts at different depths through productive water

Float Tips:

• Brightly colored floats (orange, pink, chartreuse) are easier to see in low light
• In heavy current, use heavier floats (more weight capacity)
• Balsa wood floats are more sensitive than plastic

Bait Presentation:

• Keep bait lively and fresh—change every 5-10 minutes
• Scent matters: add Pro-Cure or other attractants to jigs and lures
• Small offerings outperform large in clear water

When Float Fishing Dominates:

• Fast pocket water where drift fishing results in constant snags
• Long runs requiring extended, drag-free drifts
• Clear water where steelhead are ultra-spooky (floats can be placed far from fish)
• When fish are suspended mid-column rather than tight to bottom

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Setting float too shallow (bait drifts over fish heads)
• Dragging float (line belly pulls float unnaturally)
• Striking too hard (light leaders can break)
• Using too heavy leader (spooky fish in clear water)
• Poor float balance (incorrect shot pattern)
• Not extending drifts fully (picking up too early)

🎣 Technique #3: Swinging Flies and Spoons (The Classic Method)

Overview
Swinging is the quintessential, traditional method for steelhead and salmon—the technique that built the legends of Pacific Northwest fishing. Instead of drifting bait along bottom, swinging involves casting across and downstream, allowing current to sweep your offering in an arc through the strike zone while maintaining constant tension. When a steelhead grabs a swung fly or spoon, the take is often violent and visual—explosive surface strikes that define why anglers become obsessed with these fish. This is active, athletic fishing that covers water quickly and produces spectacular hookups.

When to Deploy This Technique

• Best For: Summer steelhead (prime method), winter steelhead in lower flows, coho salmon, chum salmon
• Ideal Flows: Low to moderate flows (1,500-3,000 cfs)—too much water makes swing ineffective
• Water Temp: 42-55°F is ideal; below 40°F steelhead are less aggressive toward swung offerings
• Best Locations: Tailouts, riffle water, broad glides, gravel bar runs
• Time of Day: Early morning and late evening produce most aggressive strikes

Fly Fishing Setup

Single-Hand Fly Rod Setup:

• Rod: 9-10 foot, 7-8 weight single-hand fly rod (fast action for distance casting)
• Reel: Large arbor reel with strong drag and 150+ yards backing
• Line: Weight-forward floating line OR 10-15 foot sink-tip (type 3-6 depending on depth/current)
• Leader: 0-6 feet of 10-15 lb fluorocarbon (shorter leaders with sink-tips, longer with floating lines)
• Flies: Intruder-style flies, traditional wet flies (Freight Train, Purple Peril), or egg-sucking leeches

Spey Rod Setup (Two-Hand Rods):

• Rod: 12-14 foot switch rod or spey rod (6-8 weight)
• Reel: Large arbor with 200+ yards backing
• Line: Skagit head (450-550 grain) OR Scandi line with sink tips
• Leader/Tips: 10-foot polyleader or interchangeable sink tips (type 3-6)
• Flies: Same as single-hand setup

Spinning Setup (For Spoons and Hardware):

• Rod: 9-10.5 foot medium spinning rod (6-15 lb line rating)
• Reel: 3000-4000 size spinning reel
• Main Line: 10-15 lb monofilament OR 20-30 lb braid with 10-12 lb fluorocarbon leader
• Lures: Spoons (Blue Fox Pixee, Little Cleo), spinners (Mepps, Blue Fox, Rooster Tail)

Best Flies and Lures for Swinging

Fly Patterns (Proven Hoh Producers):

1. Intruders: Black/purple, pink/orange, chartreuse combinations (3-6 inches)
2. Popsicles: Pink, purple, black (3-4 inches)
3. Egg-Sucking Leeches: Black/purple with pink or orange egg head
4. Traditional Wet Flies: Freight Train, Purple Peril, Green Butt Skunk (size 2-6)
5. Egg Flies: Glo-Bugs, sucker spawn in pink, orange, chartreuse (during salmon spawn)

Spoons and Hardware:

1. Blue Fox Pixee Spoons: Size 2-4 in silver/blue, chartreuse, pink
2. Little Cleo: 1/3-3/4 oz in silver, copper, chartreuse
3. Mepps Aglia Spinners: Size 3-5 in silver, copper
4. Dick Nite Spoons: Size 3 in chartreuse, pink, silver

Size Selection: Summer steelhead and coho respond well to smaller offerings (2-3 inches); winter steelhead prefer larger profiles (3-6 inches). Chum salmon love flies in the 2-3 inch range.

The Technique: Step-by-Step

1. Reading Water for Swinging

Ideal swinging water has specific characteristics:

• Uniform Depth: 3-6 feet deep is perfect
• Moderate Current: Fast enough to create swing arc but not so fast offerings drag unnaturally
• Gravel/Boulder Bottom: Smooth bottom allows better presentation than chaotic, rocky structure
• Tailouts and Glides: Classic swing water—long, even runs where fish rest and are willing to move to flies

Key Concept: You're fishing for aggressive, willing fish. Swinging doesn't appeal to neutral or negative fish like bait does. You're searching for players.

2. The Cast and Initial Presentation

The Classic Swing Cast:

• Position yourself at the head (upstream end) of the run
• Cast 45-60 degrees downstream and across current
• As fly lands, raise rod tip to 10-11 o'clock position
• Let current take control—do nothing

Mending (Critical to Success):

• As current pulls line, a belly (curve) forms. This belly causes fly to drag unnaturally fast.
• Upstream Mend: Flip line upstream with rod tip to slow fly down and extend swing
• Goal: Fly should swing across current at roughly current speed, maintaining depth and swimming naturally
• Make multiple mends per swing to control speed and depth

3. Managing the Swing

The Arc of the Swing:

• Fly starts downstream-and-across, swings through an arc as current pulls
• Sweet Spot: The middle portion of the swing (90-degree angle to your position) is where most strikes occur
• As fly completes swing, it hangs directly below you in the current (this is "on the dangle")

During the Swing:

• Maintain tension on the line—no slack
• Feel the fly working in the current (you should feel consistent pull and vibration)
• Keep rod tip high to manage line and set hook effectively
• Watch line and rod tip—strikes are often visible

4. Strike Detection and Response

Swung fly/spoon strikes are unmistakable:

• Violent Surface Explosions: Steelhead often come from below and crush fly on surface
• Solid Grab: Feels like hanging bottom, then it starts moving
• Rod Loads Hard: Sudden pressure pulls rod tip down aggressively

Critical Rule: DO NOT SET THE HOOK
When swinging with flies:

• Let the fish hook itself—the tension from current and line already set hook
• When you feel strike, RESIST the urge to set—many fish are lost because anglers rip hooks out with aggressive sets
• Simply keep pressure on—lift rod slightly and let fish load against the rod

With spoons and spinners on spinning gear, a light hookset is acceptable but not aggressive.

5. The Dangle (Often Where Magic Happens)

When fly completes swing and hangs directly below you:

• Hold it there for 10-30 seconds—this is "fishing the dangle"
• Strip line in slowly (if fly fishing) or reel very slowly (if spinning)
• Many fish grab on the dangle—don't rush to recast

6. Step and Repeat (Covering Water)

After completing each swing and dangle:

• Take 2-3 steps downstream
• Make another cast at same angle
• Repeat this process until you've covered the entire run

This systematic approach ensures you present your offering to every steelhead in the run.

7. Fighting Fish on Swinging Tackle

When you hook a steelhead on a swung fly, the fight is spectacular:

• Initial Run: Let them go—with tension already on, fish often immediately jump
• Stay Downstream: Move downstream with fish if necessary; never get upstream
• Side Pressure: Pull fish from angles to turn their head and control direction
• Be Patient: Tire the fish properly before netting

Pro Tips for Swinging Success

Fly Selection Strategy:

• Bright/Clear Days: Darker flies (black, purple)
• Overcast/Stained Water: Brighter flies (pink, chartreuse)
• Early Season (November-December): Larger flies (4-6 inches)
• Late Season (March-April): Smaller offerings (2-3 inches)

Sink Tip Selection:

• Deeper/Faster water: Type 6 sink tip (6 inches per second)
• Medium depth: Type 3-4 tips
• Shallow tailouts: Floating line or Type 2 tip
• Match tip to water speed and depth

Spey Casting Advantage:

• Spey (two-hand) rods allow covering more water with less effort
• Essential skill for serious steelheaders—consider taking a lesson
• Single-hand rods work fine for smaller water

When Swinging Dominates:

• Summer steelhead season: These fish are most aggressive toward swung flies
• Low, clear water: When drift fishing produces snags, swinging covers water cleanly
• Coho salmon: Silvers are suckers for swung flies and spoons
• When you want explosive strikes: Nothing beats the visual, surface-crushing grab of a steelhead on a swung fly

Retrieve Variations:

• Classic Swing: No retrieve—let current do all the work
• Hand Twist Retrieve: Slow, consistent line strips during swing (can trigger fish)
• Stop and Go: Pause mid-swing for 2-3 seconds, then continue—triggers following fish

Hardware (Spoons/Spinners) Advantages:

• Easier for beginners than fly fishing
• Very effective for coho and chum salmon
• Less expensive than fly tackle
• Can be swung identically to flies

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Setting hook aggressively (rips hooks out)
• Swinging in water too fast or too deep
• Not mending line (fly drags unnaturally)
• Picking up too quickly (not fishing the dangle)
• Using too heavy tippet (spooky fish)
• Rushing the coverage (skipping water between casts)
• Giving up after a few casts (swinging requires patience and persistence)

🧭 Where to Fish on the Hoh River

Lower Hoh River (Hwy 101 Area)
The most accessible section with multiple pullouts along Highway 101. Includes popular runs like Oxbow, Morgan's Crossing, and Willoughby Creek Confluence. Excellent drift fishing and float fishing. Can be crowded during peak winter steelhead season. Best for anglers without drift boats. Covers roughly 8 miles of productive water.

Mid-Hoh River (Oil City Road Access)
Oil City Road provides access to upper river sections within Olympic National Park boundary. Features pristine wilderness fishing with old-growth rainforest backdrops. Less fishing pressure than lower river. Requires hiking to access best runs. Excellent summer steelhead water. Check park regulations—some areas have special restrictions.

Confluence with Sol Duc River
Where Hoh and Sol Duc join to form the Quillayute River. Productive water with multiple species: steelhead, Chinook, coho, and chum. Deeper holes hold big fish. Popular boat launching area for drift boat fishing. Can be combat fishing during peak runs.

Hoh River Mouth (Pacific Ocean)
Beach fishing at river mouth offers opportunities for steelhead, salmon, and sea-run cutthroat during migration periods. Requires understanding of tides and surf conditions. Less crowded than inland sections. Great for anglers who enjoy surf fishing environment.

Drift Boat Float Sections
Multiple multi-mile float sections for drift boats:

• Morgan's to Oxbow: 4 miles, excellent steelhead water
• Oxbow to Lower Hoh: 6+ miles, diverse water types
• Requires Experience: Strong current, logjams, and obstacles demand skilled boat handling

Olympic National Park Upper River
Upper reaches within park boundaries offer pristine wilderness fishing with minimal pressure. Requires hiking or backpacking. Native cutthroat trout and summer steelhead. Check park fishing regulations—some sections restricted or catch-and-release only.

🧭 Summary

The Hoh River is one of North America's premier wild steelhead and salmon destinations, offering world-class fishing in a pristine wilderness setting. Whether you're drift fishing with fresh cured eggs through deep winter runs, float fishing with centerpin and jigs through pocket water, or swinging flies for aggressive summer-run fish, the Hoh delivers experiences that create lifelong memories and obsessions.

The river's wild steelhead heritage—with ocean-bright chrome bullets regularly exceeding 15 pounds—combined with multiple salmon runs throughout the year ensures productive fishing in every season. Surrounded by ancient temperate rainforest and managed largely within Olympic National Park, the Hoh provides an unmatched combination of trophy fish potential and wilderness beauty.

Master the three core techniques—drift fishing, float fishing, and swinging—and you'll consistently connect with fish regardless of conditions. Respect the wild fish (catch-and-release for wild steelhead), follow all regulations carefully, and approach the river with the patience and persistence that steelhead fishing demands.

For those willing to learn the river's moods, understand steelhead behavior, and refine their technical skills, the Hoh River offers fishing experiences that rank among the finest in the world. The moment a 15-pound wild winter steelhead crushes your drift or explodes on your swung fly—surrounded by towering Sitka spruce and the sound of the river—you'll understand why generations of anglers have made pilgrimages to this legendary water.

Website: Washington Department of Fish & Wildlife Hoh River Info
Location: Olympic Peninsula, Washington (west of Forks, WA)
Fishing Type: Year-round river; boat and shore access
Access: $4-$8 vehicle day-use; WA fishing license required
Target Species: Wild Winter Steelhead, Summer Steelhead, Chinook Salmon, Coho Salmon, Chum Salmon, Sea-Run Cutthroat, Dolly Varden
Regulations: WDFW Fishing Regulations
Local Resources: Olympic Sporting Goods (Forks, WA), Forks Outfitters
Flow Information: USGS Gauge #12041200