🎣 Fishing Spot: Sebastian Inlet State Park

🏞️ General Details About Sebastian Inlet

Sebastian Inlet State Park is one of Florida's most iconic and productive saltwater fishing destinations, located on the state's central east coast between Melbourne Beach and Vero Beach. This 578-acre park straddles the narrow inlet where the Indian River Lagoon meets the Atlantic Ocean, creating a dynamic environment that attracts an incredible diversity of gamefish year-round.

The inlet is flanked by two famous rock jetties that extend into the Atlantic, providing excellent shore-fishing access. These jetties are ADA accessible and attract anglers from across the country seeking snook, redfish, and tarpon. The park also features direct access to the Indian River Lagoon, pristine beaches, a fishing pier, boat ramps, and the Sebastian Fishing Museum.

Unlike many fishing spots that have limited seasons, Sebastian Inlet offers 365 days of fishing opportunity. The park is open 24 hours a day, making it perfect for dawn patrols, midday sessions, or nighttime snook adventures under the lights.

🌟 Why Sebastian Inlet Is Special

• Year-Round Fishing Action
  While many fisheries have distinct on and off seasons, Sebastian Inlet provides consistent action throughout the year. Whether it's winter flounder runs, spring tarpon migrations, summer snook explosions, or fall redfish blitzes, there's always something biting.

• The Famous Jetties
  The north and south jetties are legendary in Florida fishing circles. These granite and coquina rock structures create ideal ambush points for gamefish and allow anglers to reach deep water and strong currents without a boat. The jetties have produced countless trophy snook, bull redfish, and tarpon over the decades.

• Multiple Fishing Environments
  Within minutes, you can fish surf beaches, rocky jetties, calm lagoon waters, river mouths, and offshore reefs. This diversity means you can target everything from inshore snook to offshore sailfish in a single day.

• Trophy Fish Potential
  Sebastian Inlet consistently produces oversized specimens: bull redfish over 30 inches, snook exceeding 40 inches, massive tarpon, and doormat flounder. The inlet's unique position and strong currents concentrate baitfish and attract the biggest predators.

• Rich Fishing Heritage
  Home to the Sebastian Fishing Museum, the inlet has been a cornerstone of Florida's sportfishing culture for generations. The museum chronicles the area's fishing history and educates visitors about conservation efforts.

💵 Cost and Access (2025)

Sebastian Inlet State Park has affordable entrance fees with no daily permit system—just pay at the gate and fish as long as you like.

🎫 2025 Access Fees

Park Hours: Open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year
Fishing License: Florida saltwater fishing license required (unless exempt)
Book Camping: Reserve Online or call 800-326-3521

Important Note: Effective July 28, 2025, concession activities including marina operations and equipment rentals are temporarily unavailable. Check the park website for updates.

🐟 Species and Seasonal Timing

Sebastian Inlet's position at the meeting of ocean and estuary creates exceptional habitat for a remarkable variety of gamefish. Here's when and where to target the most sought-after species:

🎯 Mastering the Jetties: Advanced Techniques

The north and south jetties at Sebastian Inlet are where legends are made. These structures concentrate gamefish in predictable patterns based on tides, current, and time of day. Success here requires understanding both the structure and specialized techniques. Below are three essential methods every serious Sebastian Inlet angler should master.

🎣 Technique #1: Jigging for Trophy Snook

Overview
Jigging for big snook at Sebastian Inlet is a visual, aggressive, and adrenaline-pumping method that consistently produces the inlet's largest specimens. This technique shines during both daytime and nighttime hours, with particularly explosive action occurring after dark when snook move shallow to ambush baitfish. The key is working bucktail jigs, flair hawks, and soft plastics tight to the jetty rocks where snook lay in ambush.

When to Deploy This Technique

• Prime Season: September 1 through December 15 (open season), with peak action in September-October
• Secondary Season: February 1 through May 31, especially March-April when water temps climb into the 70s
• Best Tides: Incoming tide is king, particularly the first 2-3 hours as clean water pushes in
• Time of Day: Nighttime produces the largest fish, but daytime can be excellent during high tide periods
• Water Temperature: Snook become active when temps exceed 70°F; prime action at 78-85°F

Tackle Setup

• Rod: 7-9 foot medium heavy rods and 9-12 foot heavy rods depending on your target and conditons
• Reel: 3000-5000 size reels for the medium heavy rods and 5000-8000 size reels on the heavy rods
• Main Line: braid any where from 10-60 lb is commonly used. (size the line acording to the reel size)
• Leader: 20-80 lb fluorocarbon, 24-36 inches (abrasion resistance against rocks and jetty structure)

Recommended Jigs and Lures

• Bucktail and flare hawk jigs: 1/2 oz to 3 oz in white, chartreuse, pink, and orange are all popular (remember to keep a good variety of bothe size and color)
• Soft Plastic Swimbaits: 3-8 inch paddle tails in white, purple, black, or natural colors on 1/4-2 oz jigheads
• Vertrex Vibes: Croaker color has proven deadly; these lipless crankbaits have incredible vibration
• Plugs: Rapala x-raps in size 10-14, Tactical Angler subdarters and Yo-zuries all all work great
• D.O.A. Baitbusters: Excellent for mimicking injured baitfish near the surface

The Technique: Step-by-Step

1. Position Yourself Strategically: Fish from the jetty rocks, positioning yourself where you can cast parallel to the jetty face or toward the inlet channel. The best spots are at the jetty tip, around the bends, and near pilings where current creates eddies.

2. The Cast: Make long casts uptide, allowing current to assist your presentation. Cast toward the rocks, into corners, and along structure. Distance matters—big snook often hold 30-50 feet from shore.

3. Let It Sink: Allow the jig to fall on a semi-slack line while watching for line movement. Many strikes occur on the initial fall. Count down to reach the strike zone—typically near the bottom where snook stage.

4. The Retrieve: This is where the magic happens:

   • Bottom Bounce Method: Give sharp, aggressive 1-2 foot hops with the rod tip, creating an erratic darting motion. Pause 1-2 seconds between hops. The jig should "bomb the bottom," kicking up sand and noise.
   • Swim Retrieve: let the jig hit the bottom or get close and begin reeling slowly, punctuated with sharp twitches downward with you rod tip to stay in contact with the bottom.
   • Vertical Jigging: When positioned directly over fish-holding structure, drop the jig straight down and work it vertically with aggressive snaps.

5. Strike Detection and Hookset: Snook strikes on jigs can range from savage thumps to subtle weight. Any change in pressure requires an immediate, sharp hookset. Reel down tight and drive the hook home with a powerful upward sweep.

6. The Fight: When you hook a big snook near rocks:

   • Apply immediate pressure to turn the fish away from structure
   • Keep rod high to prevent the snook from diving into rocks or wrapping around pilings.
   • Expect multiple runs; big snook will test your drag
   • Be prepared for the fish to wrap your line around concrete pilings at the jetty tip—many fish are lost this way

7. Landing the fish: When landing big fish:

   • Be prepared with a drop net (pier net) that has a rope of at least 25 ft long.
   • Help is usually required. Have someone lower the net, then use your rod to steer the fish into the net.
   • Once the fish is fully in the net, have them lift it while you reel in the slack line that comes up with the fish.
   • Carefully bring the fish over the rail and set it gently down on the pier to avoid harm to big breeder fish. (Always practice safe and proper handling of all fish.)

Pro Tips from Local Experts

• Night Advantage: After dark, snook move into mere feet of water. Cast extremely close to the rocks—within 10-20 feet—and work jigs slowly. The legendary "Snookman" Wayne Landry reports catching 17 snook in one night session, all within casting range of shore.
• Match the Conditions:* In heavy current, use heavier jigs (1.5 - 3 oz) to maintain bottom contact. In lighter flow, scale down to 1/2 - 1.5 oz for a more natural presentation.
• Color Matters: White works in most conditions, but chartreuse flair hawks have an almost mystical reputation at Sebastian Inlet. On bright days, try natural colors; at night, go with lighter shades.
• Artificial Shrimp Jigs: DOA or Gulp thumper shrimp on weighted hooks are phenomenal during high tide when snook feed heavily on live shrimp in cleaner water.
• Watch the Boats: Charter captains anchored off the jetty are targeting snook with live bait—fish the same areas with jigs for explosive strikes
• Moon Phase: New and full moons create stronger tides and more aggressive feeding behavior. Try fishing 2-3 days befor or after a full or new moon.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Setting drag too tight—big snook will chafe your leader line cuasing break offs if the jig is deep in its mouth and the drag is too tight.
• Casting too far from structure—snook hug the jetty face
• Retrieving too fast—slow down and let the jig work near bottom
• Using too light of leader—40 lb minimum for abrasion resistance
• Never give up after a few casts—persistence pays off

🐟 Technique #2: Fishing Bottom with Live Bait for Flounder in the Rocks

Overview
The fall and winter flounder migration through Sebastian Inlet is legendary, drawing anglers from across Florida to target these delicious flatfish. As flounder move from inshore lagoons to offshore spawning grounds, they funnel through the inlet's rocky structure, creating world-class fishing opportunities. The technique requires patience, proper rigging, and understanding of flounder behavior—these ambush predators lie flat on the bottom, camouflaged and waiting to strike.

When to Deploy This Technique

• Prime Season: November through February, with December producing the largest "doormat" flounder
• Secondary Season: October and March for the beginning and end of the migration
• Best Tides: Both incoming and outgoing work, but focus on tide changes and the first 2 hours of movement
• Best Locations: South jetty beach side, north jetty tip area, rocky shorelines, T-Dock area, and the tidal pool
• Ideal Conditions: Slower current periods allow better bottom presentation; cleaner water improves bite

Tackle Setup
Two Primary Rigs: Fish Finder Rig vs. Knocker Rig

Fish Finder Rig (Traditional Method)

• Rod: 7-8 foot medium spinning or conventional rod with sensitive tip for detecting subtle bites
• Reel: 3000-4000 spinning reel or conventional reel with smooth drag
• Main Line: 20-30 lb monofilament OR 15-40 lb braid
• Running Sinker: Egg sinker (3/4 oz to 2 oz depending on current—just heavy enough to hold bottom)
• Barrel Swivel: Prevents line twist and acts as sinker stop
• Leader: 12-18 inches of 20-40 lb monofilament (fluorocarbon in clear water)
• Hook: 1/0 to 2/0 short-shank J-hook or circle hook

Knocker Rig (Modern Method)

• Main Line: 15-40 lb braided line
• Blood Knot Connection: 18 inches of 20-30 lb monofilament or fluorocarbon leader
• Sliding Sinker: 1/4 oz to 1 oz egg sinker threaded onto leader
• Plastic Bead: 8mm bead creates the "knock" sound when sinker hits it
• Hook: 3/0 to 5/0 circle hook (snelled for maximum hookup ratio)

Best Live Baits (In Order of Effectiveness)

1. Mud Minnows (Bull Minnows): The #1 flounder bait. Hardy, active, and flounder can't resist them. Hook through both lips.
2. Finger Mullet: 3-6 inches long. Hook through the lips or just behind the head. Extremely effective.
3. Live Shrimp: Hook through the tail to keep them lively. Good backup when minnows aren't available.
4. Small Croakers (Pigfish): Naturally found in the inlet; catch with sabiki rigs and use immediately.
5. Mojarra (Small): These baitfish can be caught in the inlet and work well for flounder.

The Technique: Step-by-Step

1. Location Scouting
Flounder hold along edges where rock meets sand, in deeper pockets between boulders, and along the channels. At Sebastian Inlet:

• South Jetty Beach Side: Cast from the rocks toward the trough (where waves break). This is the most productive area.
• North Jetty Tip: Fish the ocean side on outgoing tides when flounder stage to move offshore.
• Rocky Shorelines: Target the transition zones where rock structure provides ambush points.
• Avoid Heavy Current: Find slack water pockets where flounder can lie comfortably—they don't like fighting strong flow.

2. Bait Preparation and Hook Placement

• Mud Minnows/Finger Mullet: Hook through both lips (lower lip first, then upper). This keeps them swimming naturally and alive longer.
• Live Shrimp: Hook through the tail section, avoiding the dark spot (that's the brain). Keep them lively.
• Keep Bait Fresh: Use an aerated livewell or frequently change out dead baits. Flounder prefer lively, struggling baits.

3. The Cast and Presentation

• Cast uptide or across the current, allowing your rig to settle naturally to the bottom
• Watch your line—when it goes slack, you've hit bottom
• Engage your reel and take up slack, but leave a small bow in the line (tight-line method reduces hookup rate with flounder)
• Adjust sinker weight if current is too strong or if you're snagging constantly

4. Working the Bait: The Critical Technique
This is where most anglers fail. Flounder are ambush predators—they won't chase a stationary bait for long.

• Bump and Pause: Every 30-60 seconds, slowly lift your rod tip 12-18 inches, dragging the bait across the bottom. Pause. Let it settle. Repeat. This mimics injured or fleeing baitfish.
• Slow Retrieve: After 2-3 minutes in one spot, reel in 2-3 slow cranks, bumping the bait along bottom. Pause. Continue pattern.
• The "Hop": Give occasional aggressive hops—lift rod sharply to bounce bait off bottom, creating vibration and noise. This triggers strikes from hesitant flounder.
• Cover Water: Don't sit stagnant. Work your bait across different bottom compositions—sand, rock edges, holes between boulders.

5. Strike Detection: The Most Challenging Aspect
Flounder bites are notoriously subtle. They inhale prey from bellow, creating a soft thump or slight weight on the line.

• The Bite: Feels like gentle tapping, a soft "thunk," or simply added weight. Sometimes just a slightly tighter line.

• DO NOT SET IMMEDIATELY: This is crucial. When you feel a bite:

  1. Lower rod tip slightly and give slack
  2. Count slowly: "One one-thousand, two one-thousand, three one-thousand"
  3. Tighten line slowly until you feel weight
  4. Set the hook firmly with a sweep set (not a violent jerk)

• With Circle Hooks: Simply reel down and apply steady pressure. The hook will set itself in the corner of the mouth.

• Multiple Taps: Sometimes flounder "test" the bait with several light taps before fully committing. Be patient.

6. The Fight and Landing
Flounder don't have explosive runs, but they're powerful when pulled off the bottom.

• Maintain steady pressure—flounder will shake their heads violently
• Keep them coming; don't give slack
• Landing from Jetty Rocks: This is tricky. Have a long-handled net or pier gaff ready. Flounder are broad and flat—they can flop off hooks easily at the surface.
• Slide net under fish from behind; never chase from above
• For legal fish (12-inch minimum, 10 per day bag limit), immediately put on ice

Pro Tips from Sebastian Inlet Veterans

• The South Jetty Secret: Local captain Glyn Austin reports the beach side of the south jetty produces 5+ pound doormat flounder during peak December runs. Focus on the rock ledge past the first wave break.
• Use Fresh Bait: Check your bait every 5-10 minutes. Dead bait = no bites. Flounder want active, struggling prey.
• Light Leader Means More Bites: In ultra-clear water, downsize to 20 lb leader. Flounder are surprisingly leader-shy.
• Jigging Alternative: If live bait isn't available, use a 1/2 oz jighead tipped with Gulp! shrimp or DOA shrimp. Bounce it along bottom with 3-5 second pauses.
• Bottom Composition: Use your sinker to "feel" the bottom. When you drag across a transition from sand to rock or into a depression, slow down—these are flounder magnets.
• Loose Drag Is Critical: Flounder have soft mouths. Too much drag pressure will tear the hook out. Set drag light and let the rod absorb the fight.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Setting the hook too quickly—give flounder time to fully take the bait
• Using too heavy sinker—causes constant snags and unnatural presentation
• Fishing only one spot—flounder are scattered, keep moving if bites don't happen in 10 minutes
• Tail-hooking mullet—nose-hooked baits swim more naturally
• Forgetting to adjust for tide strength—add/remove weight as current changes

Best Times for Trophy Flounder
The legendary "doormat" flounder (4-7+ pounds) move through in mid-December. Early morning outgoing tides produce the biggest fish as they stage to migrate offshore.

🎯 Technique #3: Freelining Live Bait with a Small Split Shot

Overview
Freelining is the most natural and effective live bait presentation for Sebastian Inlet's educated, pressured gamefish. This technique involves using minimal weight—just enough to get the bait into the strike zone while allowing completely natural movement. When executed properly, freelining produces explosive strikes from snook, redfish, Spanish mackerel, and tarpon that ignore heavier rigged baits. The method requires understanding current dynamics, bait behavior, and precise casting.

When to Deploy This Technique

• Best For: Snook, redfish, Spanish mackerel, tarpon, jack crevalle, mangrove snapper
• Ideal Tides: Moderate current periods; strongest on incoming tides and first hour of outgoing
• Prime Locations: Along jetty faces, near pilings, around current breaks, tidal rips, and structure edges
• Water Conditions: Clearer water is ideal; fish can visually hunt and are more inclined to strike natural presentations
• Time Advantage: Especially deadly at first light, last light, and nighttime when predators move shallow

Tackle Setup

• Rod: 7-8 foot medium to medium-heavy spinning rod with a sensitive tip to detect subtle takes
• Reel: 3000-4000 size spinning reel with smooth drag (critical for big snook runs)
• Main Line: 20-30 lb braided line (thin diameter cuts current, excellent sensitivity)
• Leader: 30-50 lb fluorocarbon, 24-36 inches (abrasion resistance and near-invisibility)
• Split Shot: #3 to #1 split shot (or 1/8 to 1/4 oz rubber-core sinkers) placed 12-18 inches above hook
• Hooks: 2/0 to 4/0 live bait circle hooks (size matched to bait)

Alternative: True Freeline (No Weight)
In light current or shallow water, eliminate the split shot entirely. This creates the most natural presentation but requires precise casting and active bait management.

Best Live Baits for Freelining
Tier 1 Baits (Most Effective):

1. Croakers: The undisputed king. Loud, lively, and irresistible. Target croakers are 3-5 inches.
2. Pigfish: Similar to croakers; they grunt and attract predators from distance.
3. Mojarra (Yellowfins): Small, silvery, highly active. Can be caught in the inlet with sabiki rigs.
4. Live Shrimp: Universal appeal. Medium to jumbo size, hooked through tail or under horn.

Tier 2 Baits (Also Productive): 5. Pinfish: Hardy and active but can swim to surface—add split shot to keep them down. 6. Finger Mullet: 3-5 inches; excellent for tarpon and big snook. 7. Pilchards (Whitebait): When available; deadly for Spanish mackerel and mackerel. 8. Small Greenies (Scaled Sardines): Spanish mackerel candy; also effective for snook.

Bait Selection Strategy:
The inlet dictates preference—some days fish want croakers exclusively, other days mojarra or shrimp produce better. Bring variety. Charter captains emphasize having multiple bait types in the livewell because preferences change by tide and time.

The Technique: Step-by-Step

1. Reading the Water and Positioning
Success with freelining requires understanding where predatory fish stage:

• Current Breaks: Areas where fast current meets slower water create ambush points
• Eddy Lines: Behind pilings, rocks, and structure corners where baitfish get disoriented
• Depth Changes: Drop-offs and holes where snook and reds wait for prey to wash by
• Jetty Face: Within 10-30 feet of the rocks where snook lay in pockets
• Incoming Tide Sweet Spots: Inside corners and along pier pilings where clean water pushes baitfish out in the inlet

2. Rigging Your Bait
Proper hook placement is critical to maintain natural bait movement:

• Croakers/Pigfish: Hook just behind and slightly below the dorsal fin (not through the spine). This allows them to swim naturally while staying upright. Alternatively, nose-hook through both lips.
• Mojarra: Nose-hook through both lips. These fish are delicate; handle carefully.
• Live Shrimp: Hook through the tail section OR just under the horn on top of the head (keep them lively longer).
• Pinfish: Hook through the fleshy back area behind dorsal fin, avoiding the spine.
• Finger Mullet: Nose-hook through both lips; they swim horizontally and naturally.

Key Point: The bait MUST swim naturally. If it spins, flips, or struggles unnaturally, re-hook it. Predators can detect unnatural movement instantly.

3. The Cast: Precision Matters
Freelining requires targeted casts to specific structures:

• Uptide Casting: Cast 15-30 feet uptide from your target zone. This allows the bait to drift naturally into the strike zone with the current.
• Parallel to Jetty: When fishing jetty faces, cast parallel to the rocks and let current swing the bait along the structure.
• Pitch to Pilings: Gently lob baits near pilings (within 5-10 feet) where big snook hide.
• Swing Presentation: Cast across current and allow your bait to sweep in an arc—this triggers reaction strikes.

Casting Tip: Lob or pitch casts rather than powerful overhead casts. Hard casts can injure or kill delicate baits.

4. Managing the Drift: Active Engagement
Unlike bottom rigs, freelining requires constant line management:

• Keep Slight Bow in Line: Maintain a small amount of slack—enough to let bait swim naturally but not so much you can't detect strikes.
• Follow the Bait: As current pulls your bait, slowly follow with your rod tip, maintaining that slight bow.
• Watch Your Line: The braided line is your strike indicator. Any twitch, jump, or unusual movement could be a bite.
• Rod Position: Hold rod at 45-degree angle, tip slightly elevated. This gives you hookset power while maintaining sensitivity.

5. Detecting and Responding to Strikes
Freelined bait strikes vary dramatically by species:

Snook Strikes:

• Often a solid thump followed by immediate weight
• Sometimes gentle "taps" as they inspect the bait
• On the strike: Lower rod tip slightly, give 1-2 seconds, then reel tight and sweep-set

Redfish Strikes:

• Aggressive, immediate weight
• They inhale prey and don't let go
• Set quickly and firmly

Spanish Mackerel Strikes:

• Lightning-fast, violent strikes
• They slash and grab—immediate hookset required
• Use wire leader if targeting mackerel specifically

Tarpon Strikes:

• Explosive surface blow-ups OR heavy weight suddenly pulling
• Set the hook 3-5 times with hard sweeps (their mouths are like bone)

Universal Rule with Circle Hooks: When you feel weight, simply reel down tight and maintain pressure. The circle hook will rotate and set itself in the corner of the jaw. Do NOT jerk or sweep-set with circle hooks.

6. Fighting Fish from the Jetty
Big snook and reds near rock structure require immediate aggression:

• First Three Seconds: Apply maximum drag pressure to turn the fish away from rocks
• Keep Rod High: Prevents fish from diving into rock crevices or wrapping pilings
• Anticipate the Run: Big snook will make 2-3 powerful runs; be ready with proper drag setting (should pull line but not easily)
• Beware of Pilings: Fish often wrap line around concrete pilings at jetty tips—this is where most big fish are lost

Pro Tips for Freelining Success

Bait Management:

• Use an aerated Large livewell 10 gallons plus or constantly refresh bait in a bucket with fresh seawater
• Check bait every 5-10 minutes—replace tired or dead baits immediately
• Croakers and Pigfish Die Quickly: They're worth the effort but need careful handling
• Pinfish are the hardiest—great for beginners learning the technique

Current Strategy:

• Strong Current: Add slightly more weight (go to larger split shot or small egg sinker) to keep bait in zone
• Light Current: Remove all weight for true freelining—most natural presentation
• Slack Tide: Less effective for freelining; switch to bottom rigs or jigging

Location Rotation:

• If no bites in 10-15 minutes, move. Productive spots change with tide.
• Watch where other anglers are catching fish and position nearby (with respect to space)
• Charter boats anchored off jetty tips are targeting the same fish—freeline those areas

Night Fishing Advantage:

• Snook move extremely shallow at night (within 10-20 feet of rocks)
• Freelined baits under jetty lights are absolute dynamite
• Live shrimp become especially effective after dark
• Use lighter leaders (30-40 lb) for better hookup ratios in low light

Multiple Rod Strategy:

• Experienced anglers run 2-3 rods: one freelined, one with knocker rig on bottom, one with jig
• This covers multiple depths and presentations simultaneously
• Legal at Sebastian Inlet as long as you're actively attending all rods

When Freelining Outperforms Everything:

• High fishing pressure days when fish are educated and wary
• Ultra-clear water conditions
• When you see fish but they refuse artificials or heavily weighted baits
• Fishing around abundant natural bait schools
• Targeting finicky tarpon that "roll" but won't strike conventional presentations

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Using too much weight—defeats the entire purpose of natural presentation
• Casting too far—most strikes happen within 30 feet of structure
• Setting hook too early—especially with snook, give them time
• Poor bait maintenance—dead/dying baits catch nothing
• Ignoring current changes—as tide shifts, adjust technique
• Not matching bait size to target species—4-inch croaker for snook, 2-inch mojarra for mackerel

🧭 Where to Fish at Sebastian Inlet

North pier and jetty (Atlantic Side)
The most famous and productive structure. Fish the incoming tide for snook, redfish, and tarpon. Deep water access makes this ideal for larger gamefish. Can get crowded during peak season. The jetty tip is legendary for trophy snook, especially at night. Early morning and late evening produce best results. Expect to share space with other anglers.

South Jetty (Atlantic Side)
Slightly less pressured than the north side. Also Excellent for snook, reds, and tarpon. The beach side of the south jetty is prime territory for flounder during fall and winter runs.

Indian River Lagoon (West Side)
Calmer waters perfect for kayak fishing, wade fishing, or fishing from shore. Target redfish, snook, and trout in the grass flats, mangrove shorelines, and oyster bars. The lagoon connects to the St. Sebastian River system. Excellent for sight-casting to tailing redfish.

Under the Bridge (A1A Bridge)
The pilings and structure beneath the Sebastian Inlet Bridge create excellent habitat for mangrove snapper, snook, and redfish. Fish during tide changes for best results. Snapper feed on both incoming and outgoing tides around the pilings.

T-Dock Area
Located on the river side, this spot produces mangrove snapper, Spanish mackerel on outgoing tides, and snook at night. Cleaner water here than main inlet during rough conditions.

Surf Fishing (Beaches)
Miles of Atlantic beach both north and south of the inlet. Target pompano, bluefish, Spanish mackerel, and whiting. Early morning and late afternoon are most productive. During fall mullet runs, expect tarpon, big snook, and jack crevalle blitzing bait schools in the surf.

🧭 Summary

Sebastian Inlet State Park is Florida's premier year-round saltwater fishing destination, offering unmatched variety and access for anglers of all skill levels. Whether you're sight-casting to tailing redfish in crystal-clear lagoon shallows, battling a trophy snook from the legendary jetties at night, or jigging for winter flounder during their peak migration, Sebastian Inlet delivers world-class fishing experiences 365 days a year.

The combination of Atlantic Ocean access, Indian River Lagoon ecosystems, and the inlet's unique currents create a perfect storm of fishing opportunities. Master the three core techniques—jigging for snook, bottom fishing for flounder, and freelining live bait—and you'll consistently outfish other anglers regardless of conditions.

Add in affordable access fees, excellent facilities, and the ability to fish without a boat, and it's clear why Sebastian Inlet has earned its reputation as one of America's greatest fishing spots. The jetties have produced more memorable fish stories than perhaps any other shore-fishing location in Florida.

Website: https://www.floridastateparks.org/Sebastian-Inlet
Location: Melbourne Beach, Florida (between Vero Beach and Melbourne)
Fishing Type: Year-round, shore and boat access
Access: $8 per vehicle; open 24/7/365
Target Species: Snook, Redfish, Flounder, Tarpon, Grouper, Spanish Mackerel, Bluefish, Jack Crevalle, Pompano, Black Drum
Fishing Report: Sebastian Inlet District
Bait & Tackle: Sebastian Inlet Bait & Tackle (on-site, 25+ years serving anglers)